Céline designer Phoebe Philo was in a playful mood for Spring/Summer 2018, and her catwalk reflected it. Experimental looks ran amok, but an incredibly beautiful variety of feminine dresses tethered her collection, making it accessible. Up front: the first 10 or so looks were not my favorite. Coming straight off of Balenciaga, it’s hard not to read those oversized silhouettes and engulfing layers as something Demna might have done.
However, just as oversized silhouettes were starting to feel overdone on the catwalks, Philo managed to bring something new to the line-up at Céline with trench-inspired looks that smartly doubled their own surfaces by looping back onto themselves. Can’t say I’ve seen that anywhere else, and more than anything, I love it when a designer risks innovation. This time, it worked, even though it was a bit heavy for spring.
An outstanding presentation like this one deserves a standing ovation, even when it’s out of fashion to do so.
Past that, the collection exploded with graceful, sophisticated looks, like halter-neck fringed maxis, elegant navy trenches, leather-trimmed capes, delicate silk dresses etched with lace, and longline cardigans that sprouted tufts of feathers. Two dresses upholstered with stiff leather brims that jutted out from the hip, exemplified by the striped look worn by Binx Walton, were stand-out successes, as were an optic white drawstring poncho, leather trousers with striped paneling, and one simply divine sequined turtleneck dress. An outstanding presentation like this one deserves a standing ovation, even when it’s out of fashion to do so.