Loewe, steered by one of fashion’s most imaginative geniuses, has traversed a lot of different aesthetics, but it has never investigated bohemia before. Until now, J.W. Anderson’s woman has been a sophisticated sort, willing to take sartorial risks, but for Spring/Summer 2018 he lets her relax. Suddenly, she’s in old-fashioned Wedgewood printed peplum dresses made from simple cotton fabrics, or a simple white tee and black trouser combination where a perfect fit goes a long way. While it may seem like a simple, accessible collection at first glance, its surface appeal belies its tactile wonders.
When you think about fashion craftsmanship, you’re likely to envision densely embroidered and intricately embellished surfaces, or decorative accents of paillettes and feathers. For Spring/Summer 2018, Anderson employed naïf touches of “arts and crafts”. The entire collection was touched with drawstring cut-outs, macramé, tassels, knots, and buttons, creating unexpected textures and shapes.
While other brands tend to assemble their collections into a sensible narrative, this one felt like a grab-bag of influences, ranging from a grandmother’s sitting room and a kindergarten classroom to a lover’s picnic. Anderson showed crumpled gingham blocks set into a maxi t-shirt dress, crisp linen dresses with cut-outs at the hips, patchworked trousers, fisherman’s denim, and logo-fied looks touched with fringe. Nearly every look contained some combination of asymmetry, layering, and patchwork, and all of these elements combined for a collection that demands to be touched.
Simultaneously giving serious fashion an unserious side that anyone can appreciate.
While we weren’t crazy about those oddball crakow sneakers, Anderson explained they were intentionally put into the collection to add a sense of humor. To have the wit and wherewithal to include moments of humor amid his normcore-meets-bohemia presentation speaks to the designer’s comfort level at Loewe, while simultaneously giving serious fashion an unserious side that anyone can appreciate.