Prints and Tailoring Are a Winning Formula at Dries Van Noten

A scarf acted as a keepsake and an invitation to the Dries Van Noten show, but it was also a sign of things to come on the runway. Scarves, especially the colorfully printed variety, are the kind of eye-catching accoutrement that makes an outfit stand out. Imagine just how much more noticeable it would be if the scarf idea was transformed into an entire look – which is exactly what Van Noten did for Spring/Summer 2018.

A mastery of tailoring and prints amounts to a lifetime’s worth of incredible clothes, which is what Dries Van Noten has offered for the past 30 years and 100 ensuing collections – now memorialized in a double-volume tome. For the forthcoming season, Van Noten takes these two pillars of his brand and transforms them by way of the scarf, either attached or folded into the pleats and drape of the clothes, or left to peek through the hem and trail behind a look as an accent piece. He also engaged the eye by way of a subtle splash of bling found in the eye makeup, decorative brooches that clasped the surface of many a look, and the occasional arrangement of crystal paillettes that cropped up on taupe jackets, collars, and sheer overlays.

The formula, as always, was sublime. As one of fashion’s most noteworthy and singular designers, his vision is so clear that you often hear of other designers copying his aesthetic, but never the other way around. However, Dries Van Noten did seem to get the memo about styling menswear blazers with ephemeral sheer skirts. With Van Noten’s skillful hand, the trend was applied judiciously – appearing only three times. There aren’t many women who want to leave the house with their underthings exposed, but for those who do, there were a few colorful choices.

The formula, as always, was sublime.

The scarf-laden dresses, roomy menswear looks, printed bombers, and cozy knits comprised the core of the collection, but the accessories that completed the looks were icing on the proverbial cake. Brocade boots, crystal-embellished sandals, single statement earrings, envelope clutches, and soft printed bags helped create head-to-toe looks, often hard to digest on other runways, but perfectly styled and convincing on Van Noten’s.