Beneath an incredible canopy of rainbow-colored silk, Missoni celebrated 20 years of designer Angela Missoni’s leadership with one of its best collections in recent memory. As a family-run Italian luxury brand committed to knitwear, you think one might eventually run out of ideas, but Missoni has been innovating since the beginning and her expertise at her craft is evident.
While you are likely to find the same elements in every Missoni collection – because of this commitment to a narrow range of influence – the arrangements and styles have changed greatly over time. For example, I could never have imagined a pair of chevron crocheted leggings before, but for Spring/Summer 2018, they were all over the Missoni runway, and they were great.
The presentation was put together with an eye for color, especially since the overhead canopy tended to cast a shadow of filtered hues from above. On the catwalk, color was reflected tonally in pairings even when the patterns were different or outright clashed, and the effect was a little dizzying – in a good way. Out first was a sensual, baby-blue dress done in a delicious Lurex knit – a hint of sparkle that worked its way into many other looks as well. There were soft coordinated separates, crocheted cover-ups, swimwear, and watercolor cardigans that would be the envy of any jetsetter’s wardrobe.
Nothing short of effervescent will do for the Missoni girl.
A certain pattern that was popular in the 1980s – a sort of jacquard jigsaw – is often attributed as belonging solely to Koos Van Den Akker, but it really originated at Missoni. In 2017, it was revived in technicolor variations and splashed across knit sweaters and cardigans alike, to eye-popping effect. Other looks were rendered with pop art’s graphic expressionism, while some solidly colored looks – like a lithe, tangerine, plunge-front jumpsuit – balanced all the collection’s kaleidoscopic surface action. Extravagant floppy hats, which also appeared to be knit, topped several of the looks insouciantly.
Nothing short of effervescent will do for the Missoni girl. Picture her next season, gliding her way through an Ibiza beach front private party, as heads turn to take in her hat-to-toe ensemble. In these featherweight, candy-colored looks, one could hardly be accused of gawking at such a sight.