It’s been quite a week for couture ateliers, with their artisanal hand-embroidery, complex appliqués, and intricate embellishments becoming the subject of many a live Instagram story. But perhaps the most noteworthy of all were the surprising finishing touches and details that were presented in the form of accessories. From Dior’s World War II-inspired waist-cinching belts to Georges Hobeika’s Andalusian nod in the form of heavily embellished earrings and cuffs, the finery displayed at the couture shows was just as awe-inspiring as the vast collection of frothy gowns.
As the sun sets on Paris and (almost) on Fall 2017 Couture Week, Savoir Flair recalls the most enchanting accessories seen on the runways so far.
Maria Grazia Chiuri brought back Dior’s iconic New Look for her couture collection. The classic 40s silhouette was re-mastered in the form of heavy wool coats, full skirts, and structured bustiers – all of which were cinched in tightly with thin leather belts worn around the waist. With even the most delicate sheer gowns and heavily embellished jackets boasting a knotted finishing touch, the belts truly stole the show. Also noteworthy, however, were the leather gloves each model carried in her hand, adding a further point of understated elegance to every look.
Schiaparelli Creative Director Bertrand Guyon played with the concept of liberation and freedom for his couture collection, calling upon the big personalities within Elsa Schiaparelli’s friendship circle for inspiration. Indeed, it’s easy to imagine his long, electric-blue tulle gloves, exaggerated blown-glass earrings, and heart-adorned heels in the wardrobes of the house’s founder and her liberal friends. The resulting accessories were a perfect representation of utmost luxury and extravagance.
In contrast to many of the accessories seen this Couture Week, Antonio Grimaldi stuck to a simple collection of metallic pieces to complement his cool-toned gowns. Hammered-silver serpents snaked around the wrists of models in stark contrast to the delicate, finely feathered pieces they were paired with. Most dramatic of all, however, were the silver feather-shaped ear cuffs, which made quite a statement against sharply braided updos.
The accessories story at Chanel was a tale of staples. Much of the looks came sans jewelry, with the exception of a few bracelets and the ode-to-the-80s oversized pearl earrings that were worn by every single model on Karl Lagerfeld’s runway. Another theme throughout the show was the boater hat, which was matched in color and material to the coat, gown, or cocktail dress it was paired with, while patent-leather, over-the-knee boots with tweed details and fingerless, embellished gloves were a contrast to the reserved aesthetic of the collection.
Georges Hobeika’s Andalusian-inspired collection displayed the most intricate craftsmanship. Luxurious beading and embroidery draped generously across each look, and the accessories that complemented them were far from demure. Reflecting the melting pot of cultures that is Andalusia, earrings were rendered in electric blues and bold reds and accompanied by a matching cuff that sat atop the ear. The rings and arm cuffs were another talking point, spiraling up the models’ forearms and across their fingers and twinkling with every step.