Maybe it’s this writer’s unabashed love for Prabal Gurung, but the frustration with writing about a Gurung collection is that each look deserves its own article. To sum up so briefly what Gurung accomplishes on his runway every season seems like a crime of economy. This season, Gurung dives into his own spiritual quest, exorcising his demons on the runway in a collection that runs from the darkest depths to the highest heavens.
As such, this is a collection with weight – both metaphorically and physically. The dark, moody ensembles that led the show dripped with drama. Black silk capes, tough geometrical silhouettes, elbow-length leather gloves, and leather sheath dresses that married an obsidian sheen with the rainbow slick of an oil spill were among the standout pieces. Electric shades of blue began to take the collection toward a lighter mood. Gurung took this opportunity to showcase dazzling prints with his signature flare. Speaking of flare, there was a lot of it on his runway: flared skirts, trousers, and sleeves. Gurung’s previous collections have boasted 70s style influence before, and perhaps this is a thread that will always weave through his work.
Gurung’s journey to heaven in the last half of the show launched with two coruscated figure-hugging dresses with paillette overlays, each one catching the lights of the runway in such a way as to kindle and flash and sparkle. White satin and silk in sophisticated cuts proved an ethereal and subtle end to this collection. Though this was a marketable and wearable collection, the thinking consumer will find herself choosing between pieces that reflect the duality of human spirituality. Angel or imp? The call is yours.
Photos: Courtesy of GoRunway