Dior Catches the Blues for Fall/Winter 2017

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For Fall/Winter 2017, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection for Dior paid respects to the house founder’s love of blue and the complex symbolism it held for him.

“Among all colors, navy blue is the only one which can ever compete with black; it has all the same qualities,” Christian Dior wrote in The Little Dictionary of Fashion, his preference often supported by the appearance of blue on his runway. For Fall/Winter 2017, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection for Dior paid respects to the house founder’s love of blue and the complex symbolism it held for him by dedicating her entire collection to all-blue-everything. Blue might compete with black, but Dior’s superstitious nature also held blue as a conduit between the human and spirit world, as well as a symbol of power and beauty. For most, blue gestures at masculinity, but Grazia Chiuri turned this notion on its head, creating ultra-feminine looks out of the most workaday fabrics in hardy indigo.

Christian Dior Fall Winter 2017 collection
Photo: Courtesy of WGSN

Additional archival reference points also served her well this season, like a new version of Monsieur Dior’s 1949 ‘Chevrier’ look, whose dramatic hooded accent Chiuri re-worked on jackets, bombers, and capes. “It” girls really got on board with her tee-and-sheer-skirt combination introduced for Spring/Summer 2017, so Grazia Chiuri decided to keep the look going with plenty of tulle skirts and mesh dresses paired with either solid toppers or modest undergarments.

Is it surprising to see a uniform for a modern day activist on a high-fashion runway? In this day and age, hardly!

What strikes one the most is the array of choices offered within the narrower purview of a single color palette. The Dior girl has her pick of outerwear, relaxed jumpsuits, chunky knit sweaters, glittering gowns, and velvet suits. Topped with a leather beret, many of the daywear looks were reminiscent of the kind of clothes a protester might have worn during Paris’s May 1968 revolution, which brought together both students and blue-collar workers in rebellion against Charles de Gaulle. Is it surprising to see a uniform for a modern-day activist on a high-fashion runway? In this day and age, hardly!

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