Fashion has reacted strongly against the new United States administration and its policies of intolerance by banding together for Fall/Winter 2017. From Business of Fashion’s #TiedTogether movement, which aims to raise funds for the ACLU and UNHCR, and outward displays of body positivity at Michael Kors and Prabal Gurung to multiple protest-themed collections all across Fashion Month and the diverse casting on the runway, it’s clear that designers are intent on making their voices heard.
Missoni was among them, with Angela Missoni even going so far as to make an impassioned speech at the end of her presentation at Milan Fashion Week. “In a time of uncertainty, there is a bond between us that can keep us strong and safe: the bond that unites those that respect the human rights of all,” she said. “Let’s show the world that the fashion community is united and fearless.” Symbolism was rampant throughout the collection itself, with a finale that saw every model and the whole Missoni family storming the runway in pink “cat” hats in solidarity with the Women’s March. Apart from the overt political messaging, the collection itself was one of the strongest Missoni has shown in recent memory. Gone were the wispy beach cover-ups and hipster streetwear, and in their place stood sturdy suits, prismatic coordinated separates, Lurex knitwear, and more.
Over at Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier kindled the fires of nostalgia, showing a collection plucked straight from the 1940s right down the Victory rolls. Of course, Maier’s smart designs included plenty of modern elements so that the clothes read current instead of costume-y. He outfitted tailored suit skirts with fur pockets, splashed leather separates with appliqués, and showed a smashing selection of Old-Hollywood gilded gowns to close.