Fun fact: Once upon a time, Fendi’s double “F” logos stood for “Fun Fur”, but for Fall/Winter 2017 it now stands for “Feminine Fendi.” This little tidbit from Silvia Fendi tipped the audience off as to the brand’s more classic, commercial styles at Milan Fashion Week, but it also represented a curious departure from Karl Lagerfeld’s obsession with all-future-everything. If anything, the familiar styles seemed to be looking to the past.
However, what Lagerfeld intended was a bidirectional collection that pulled the past into the present – one that laced classic wardrobe pieces like tailored skirt-suits, herringbone wool trousers, silk midi skirts or fur greatcoats with modern elements like lasered cut-outs, brand logos, or an inventive double “X” leather stitch place at the waist to emphasize it like a pleat. Further, a heritage-based foundation was supported by emblazoning looks with “MCMXXV” – a motif that refers to 1925, the year Fendi was founded in Via del Plebiscito, Rome in Roman numeral form. Get it?
If you pull back and look at the presentation as a whole, it seems like it’s split in half, with the first 25 looks showcasing classic styles and timeless glamour, and the last 25 looks buoyed on a youth wave. Lagerfeld kicked things off with a simple ¾ wool coat finished with mink cuffs, with similarly appointed suits and separates to follow. Working predominantly in a palette of beige, camel, lipstick red, and black, the collection began to coalesce along the most classic lines, touched here and there with a logo band, cinched waist, or leafy appliqué.
Feminine Fendi through and through.
Then that raven-haired vixen, Bella Hadid, appeared in nothing more than a breezy white shirt, black blazer, and thigh-high red boots, and suddenly everything felt much younger and more subversive. Those boots, by the way, were worn by nearly every model underneath long skirts as a little wink of transgression. A sensual, youthful mood continued with cropped après-ski sweaters, a fully sheer dress with knitted yoke worn over a printed leotard, and a slinky liquid leather skirt, before a finale of lovely sheer gowns made from gauzy chiffon or delicately embroidered with appliqués. Feminine Fendi through and through.