Erdem's Fall/Winter 2017 collection offered lavishly embroidered gowns, modest lengths, and baroque details by the bushel.
Master storyteller, Erdem Moralioglu, plucks a tale from his own past for Fall/Winter 2017, introducing his audience to his British grandmother on his mother’s side and his Turkish grandmother on his father’s side in sartorial form. In the booklet distributed to the audience before the show, both grandmothers were there in daguerreotype: one a flapper girl in a silk quilted jacket and the other in Turkish traditional garb posing with her horse. What would happen if these two women had met, Moralioglu wondered, and then promptly proceeded to demonstrate a sensational wardrobe mash-up between East and West in answer to the question.
For over a decade Erdem has maintained a link to its British heritage by reimagining styles popularized in England’s courts, often reinterpreting Victorian and Edwardian styles for the modern woman. The brand’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection is no different, offering modest lengths and baroque details by the bushel, but this time touched with Ottoman-era accents like Turkish roses whose dark velvety leaves were likewise represented in midnight hues and velvet textures.
What would happen if these two women had met, Moralioglu wondered.
What follows are prim frocks decorated with tiny tassel details, velvet cuffs, ruffled bibs, brocade, quilting, and patchwork, with the occasional tailored suit thrown in for good measure. Gown styles were generous, and luxuriously appointed, represented in devoré velvet, macramé, and lace patchwork, or otherwise criss-crossed with velvet strips on the bodice, etched with midnight black branches, done in pleated chiffon dress, interrupted with slices of silk ribbon and finished with scenic prints on gilded velvet. One look suffered from the mistake of armpit cut-outs, but the rest of the presentation was in classic good taste.