Baroque details informed Mary Katrantzou’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection, but her velvets and wallpaper brocades were anything but old-fashioned.
While England heads into a brave new future, its designers are looking to the past, perhaps as a way of anchoring their creative output to something a little more certain and knowable – and nothing is as certain as what has already happened. Baroque details informed Mary Katrantzou’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection, but her velvets and wallpaper brocades were anything but old-fashioned. Instead, they radiated a kind of studious glamour, with models bedecked in tailored tweeds and floral separates that were collaged with dozens of surprising elements. Call it Nouveau-Baroque, and dispense with all the stuffy stuff.
It started with checkered wools fitted with chubby fur sleeves, and continued on tweed dresses with scooped-out yokes and two kinds of florals – both embossed and flat. These looks were then hybridized together with other opulent accents like jeweled necklines, brocade embroidery, velvet panels, pastel appliqués, and fur collars.
The mathematics of a Katrantzou look is divided into two categories representing three elements each: the first centers on tweed, spliced with embroidered florets, pastel fur accents, and velvet; the second focuses on wallpaper floral prints married to bespoke embroidered lace, with bugle beading along the zipper line. These categories are then sub-mixed into new looks, like a gleaming brocade car coat with bugle beaded zippers and a fur collar, as seen above.
Call it Nouveau-Baroque, and dispense with all the stuffy stuff.
This precision approach to collating luxurious elements together on outerwear, modest separates – and eventually, mini dresses and maxis – resulted in a very cohesive and well-thought out collection that proceeded from Point A to Point Z with impeccable internal logic. The finale focused on colorful gleaming pantsuits and dazzling crystallized gowns, all depicting a cartoon female centaur character. Who better to represent a collection themed on hybridization?