Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Takes Victoriana to New Levels of Cool

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For Fall/Winter 2017, designers Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton of Preen by Thornton Bregazzi leaned into Victoriana styles presented at their Spring/Summer 2017 show, with a collection steeped in ruffled accents.

For Fall/Winter 2017, designers Thea Bregazzi and Justin Thornton of Preen by Thornton Bregazzi leaned into Victoriana styles presented at their Spring/Summer 2017 show, with a collection steeped in ruffled accents. Though the mood was as dramatic as a Bardian sonnet and just as romantic, the clothes were exciting and modern, proving that the past still holds plenty of inspiration for the contemporary brand. By using well-loved motifs like digital floral prints and ruffles in unexpected ways, Bregazzi and Thornton found an aesthetic that was both editorial and wearable.

The procession started with deconstructed suits articulated with ruffles along various seams from which unfinished threads dangled – Shabby Chic, if you will. Down below, floral appliquéd socks and pointed flat brogues twinkled with juxtaposing charm like the sly, cool best-sellers they’re destined to be. Let’s face it: at London Fashion Week, Preen always has the most fun with flowers because when they’re not splicing them into mustard knit dresses or caging them underneath sheer ruched overlays, they’re sprinkling them onto socks! Little flower-themed slogans also drew notice on the runway, forming belt-like bands along the waistline, while a similar motif was shaped into a single leather earring bearing the phrase “Stop Me”.

Preen by Thornton Bregazzi Fall/Winter 2017
Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree

Preen’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection also highlighted a particularly cool take on Victorian style with necklines that formed a sort of “W” shape where the middle peaks fit over the chest and the outer peaks peeled down over the shoulders, lending the model a certain disheveled je ne sais quoi. Smeared lipstick even made the models look like they had just been caught sneaking a mouthful of jam in the pantry. Naughty wenches.

While some designers are starting to steer away from the Victorian trend, Preen is finding new methods of invigorating the styles from the era, and to great effect, too.

Whether intentional or not, the runway seemed to be bursting with subversion, as in the case of bulky sweaters trapped under binding bustiers, pristine floral corsets worn over layered dresses and beneath printed shirting, and gorgeous green shearling shag oozing out of a prim tweedy skirt suit. Everywhere you looked, there was something unexpected upholstered onto something mundane, or something being engineered in a bizarre way – like those two voluminous quilted mixed-print floral looks. While some designers are starting to steer away from the Victorian trend (save for the favorite statement sleeve), Preen by Thornton Bregazzi is finding new methods of invigorating the styles from the era, and to great effect, too.

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