Inspired by the recent documentary "Hip-Hop Evolution", Marc Jacobs staged a street-inspired collection for Fall/Winter 2017.
No one claps at Fashion Week anymore, not for lack of enthusiasm, but because their hands are busy with their smartphones in an effort to be among the first to post about a collection. Even the most eagle-eyed editor can be distracted by the demand of keeping relevant content streaming down her magazine’s social media feeds. For Fall/Winter 2017, Marc Jacobs was fed up with his audience’s goldfish-like attention span. Not only did he ask that phones be put away during the presentation, but he also showcased his collection in total silence. It was a funny thing, given that the theme of the show paid homage to a recent documentary entitled “Hip-Hop Evolution”. Jacobs’ status as a “born and bred New Yorker” meant the designer has spent a lifetime witnessing the growth of hip-hop music and street style that happened in his environment. One would expect a thumping soundtrack of old-school and new-school tracks to back his street-inspired show, but Jacobs saved all of that for later.
His polished approach concentrated on sportswear – a popular street style category for hip-hop heads who either hunted down “it-fell=off-the-truck” Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren threads or hit up Dapper Dan’s Harlem boutique for his bespoke sportswear fusions. For those familiar with Dapper Dan’s massive contributions to fashion, the fur-accented pieces were easily recognizable. Double-denim looks sprouted tufts of shearling while tweed jackets were outfitted with massive mink sleeves. Jacobs even amplified the Kangol hat and the fiddler hat– two hip-hop staples of the early 80s – transforming them with exaggerated height. All sorts of hip-hop send-ups got the luxury Jacobs’ treatment, from oversized sweaters and parkas to massive gold chains.
One couldn’t help but see the wisdom of showcasing the clothes in an environment more reflective of the streets from which they derived.
After the whisper-quiet show, the fashion crowd filed out onto Park Avenue, where they were confronted with Jacobs’ surprise ending. His “gotcha” moment answered the “why no music?” question as models congregated on metal chairs, staging a mock runway where their peers did a second walk. With the models out on the pavement posing for the camera in front of a wall of speakers which blasted music, one couldn’t help but see the wisdom of showcasing the clothes in an environment more reflective of the streets from which they derived.