Day One of New York Fashion Week was off to a quiet start as a blanket of snow hushed the island of Manhattan, which made some brands’ choice to relocate their shows this season to other cities look like a rather wise idea. Proenza Schouler and Rodarte have left the metropolis in favor of Paris, while Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Ford, and Rebecca Minkoff have chosen sunny California for their Fall/Winter 2017 shows.
Location changes were not the only things different this time around, as other designers stuck to their decision to show in-season collections, which meant they were tackling Spring/Summer 2017 looks. One of the early adopters of the in-season model is Thakoon Panichgul, who debuted his first “in-season” Thakoon collection in September, showing Fall/Winter 2016 then. That means his day one slot at NYFW showcased Spring/Summer 2017 clothes, which were lovely, layered, and tinged with vibrant tropical prints.
Meanwhile, having absconded from the East Coast to the West Coast for Fall/Winter 2017, Tommy Hilfiger technically showed the day before New York Fashion Week began, but we’re including the collection in our Day One round-up regardless. Like his Pier 16 carnival extravaganza last season, Hilfiger spared no expense in transforming his Venice beach location into a top-notch fashion fête, replete with graffiti murals, light installations, rides, roller-skate performances, fire acts, food trucks, and more.
The #TOMMYNOW event centered on festival fare, taking cues from Coachella and Burning Man, and featured plenty of “It” girl models like Gigi Hadid and Hailey Baldwin who are no stranger to the festival scene. While the clothes bore the bold stripes and athletic silhouettes that are Hilfiger signatures, the designer courted the youth crowd with cropped proportions. Despite the extravagant staging and all-star model line-up, the most ambitious aspect of Tommy Hilfiger Fall/Winter 2017 was its ready availability to the public as part of the brand’s new “see now, buy now” retail model.
Finally, Noon by Noor, one of the few Arab brands with representation on the New York calendar, kept its usual 5:00 p.m. slot but the designers injected their collection with a carefully calculated simplicity that stunned. The pure sophistication of their impeccably tailored looks offered a farewell to the brand’s typical flowing fabrics and fluid silhouettes – a sea change that was not unwelcome. Instead, the uncomplicated separates in shades of tan, navy, white, and grey spoke to a consumer’s desire for clothes that were luxurious without being fussy. Almost entirely devoid of prints and mostly monochrome, the collection stood as a testament to well-made clothing. However, it was not without a few surprises, including a peplum top with a silk ivory train and tailored pants – a modern spin on a wedding suit, perhaps? Regardless of the changes already evident at New York Fashion Week, it was a welcome sight to see some brands sticking to styles and silhouettes that women really want.