Art is one of Paris’ main attractions, which is why Kenzo chose Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine – an architecture museum with a view of the Eiffel Tower as its extraordinary backdrop – to be the setting of its Spring/Summer 2017 show. Fashion, as the most humanistic art form in existence, plays a complementary role in the City of Light, acting as both a lightning rod for social commentary and a tangible product that many have attempted to distill (a.k.a. the je ne sais quoi of Parisian style). For the forthcoming season, Kenzo not only recognized art and fashion’s relationship on its runway with architecturally crafted clothes and elegant textiles but also reaffirmed it by showcasing it all against a panel of painted nude models – thereby transforming them into living sculptures.
Kenzo recognized art and fashion’s relationship on its runway with architecturally crafted clothes and elegant textiles.
Utilitarian separates opened the show, but some were displayed in somber camo prints or soft denim while others were shown in glossy gold lamé. Additionally they came with voluminous sleeves and rigorous tailoring, which is a theme we have seen often at Paris Fashion Week so far. Things got a little more interesting when they introduced liquid fabrics with kaleidoscopic prints that bloomed down the runway on breezy dresses and looks that were comprised of layers of interlocking button discs.
Designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon tapped artist Antonio Lopez for a collaboration, which appeared on ¾-sleeved tees, wrap skirts, drawstring blouses, and T-shirt dresses, and featured his fashion photography. Monochrome parachute dresses came out next, gathered at the waist by drawstring accents, and were followed by woven mini dresses, an electrified selection of gleaming printed frocks decorated by squiggle prints, and disc-shaped paillettes that cluttered the surface of slip dresses at the show’s close. For the artistically inclined, there are plenty of intricate surfaces and amazing textiles to delve into in Kenzo’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection.