The recent passing of house founder Sonia Rykiel sparked a retrospective mood on the brand’s Spring/Summer 2017 runway, with models bedecked in Rykiel’s signature frizzy red ‘do while her pioneering knits played a starring role. It was simultaneously an homage and a revival, displaying some of Julie de Libran’s most accomplished work to date, which included sporty daywear and bohemian dresses that were all gorgeously rendered in plush knits and vivid prints. There were dozens of cool details evidenced by zip-away sleeves, bell-sleeve construction, clinical smocking with top-stitching, utility pockets, drawstring hemlines, oversized lacing, bohemian crochet, and more. For the fashion lover, this is a collection that is definitely worth your time and attention.
The recent passing of house founder Sonia Rykiel sparked a retrospective mood on the brand’s Spring/Summer 2017 runway.
With so much enticing variety on the Rykiel runway, de Libran thoughtfully demonstrated the value of the brand as it applies to the fashion landscape. The house founder was fierce and fearless, providing real women with charismatic, wearable wardrobes suited to lives filled with work, family, and adventure. De Libran built on her predecessor’s work by first approaching the collection with nautical smocked separates featuring oversized laces, delicate knit separates trimmed with black silk, sporty parka/tunic hybrids, and ample striped sweaters. In shades of navy and white, this selection was unfussy and athletic, but it was cut generously enough to appeal to a democratic demographic of women.
De Libran then began working in primary colors in the form of color-blocking and striped knits that were transformed into lithe, ankle-length frocks, oversized ponchos, and halter-neck mini dresses. In contrast to these airy looks were glossy leather skirts and top-stitched leather separates cut along elegant, fluid lines. Khaki looks came next, which were oversized and languid and suited to the travel section of one’s wardrobe, and were complimented by floral and gorgeous goddess gowns in striped jade knit.
Final looks showed further amplified volumes and textured gossamer surfaces that bloomed in tiered and padded layers. However, it was the finale that brought the homage home, as models lined the runway in sweaters that spelled “RYKIEL FOREVER”, sending the audience home with a tear in their eye and a deeper appreciation for the designer’s long, valuable contribution to the French fashion scene.