Stella McCartney is set to debut her first menswear collection, which meant masculine tailoring permeated her work this time around.
After news broke that Kim Kardashian West had been robbed of some $10 million in goods in her Paris apartment, the mood at Paris Fashion Week was tense. Stella McCartney sought to alleviate the tension with a carefree collection that ended in a coordinated dance number, which was choreographed by Blanca Li of the Paris Opera Ballet and practiced for a mere two hours the night before. As the models danced in a mock showdown, the audience relaxed, carried on a tide of good feelings. It helped that the selfsame charming spirit infected McCartney’s Spring/Summer 2017 collection, which was lighthearted, sloganized, and oversized.
Stella McCartney sought to alleviate the tension with a carefree collection that ended in a coordinated dance number.
The designer is set to debut her first menswear collection, which meant masculine tailoring permeated her work this time around. The first look stated the cause simply, with a sharp blazer outfitted with cotton corsetry details and sackcloth-waist trousers underscoring her easeful proposition for spring. Bloated sleeves added balloon-like proportionality to some of her early looks, as did parachute-like materials that featured gathered stitching.
McCartney also focused on finely woven cashmere separates that were meant to resemble coarse sackcloth and rough-hewn blanket shawls that were tossed casually over one shoulder. These were tied to similar works at Loewe and Acne Studios, where designers were also preoccupied with ways of taking raw materials and turning them into dignified daywear looks that were relaxed but flattering. Additionally in the lineup, McCartney displayed Ultrasuede ponchos, blotched pinstripe shirting, and athletic separates in soft sweatshirt material made to resemble denim.
Amplified surf elements, like leggings, oversized tees, and silky hoodie/dress hybrids, comprised the closing portion of her show, which bore slogans like “Thanks Girls”, “No Fur”, and “No Leather”. These messages spoke to the feminist, vegan ethos of McCartney’s brand but were casually funny rather than pointed. These are clothes to live in, clothes to feel cool in, and clothes that make a statement without editorializing or being overbearing.