Miuccia Prada, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Prabal Gurung, and now Ricardo Tisci have struck a feminist vein for Spring/Summer 2017 – some more overtly than others. At Givenchy, Tisci was tasked with creating looks that made women feel powerful, but instead of being on the nose with his references, he let the clothes speak for themselves.
Feeling powerful in a glamorous outfit is a subjective experience. For some, like members of his star-studded front row, flesh-baring looks are the vehicle to confidence. For others, a well-tailored pant suit and a bold statement necklace are all that is needed. For Spring 2017, Tisci took the covered-up approach to power-dressing, opting for masculine suiting and slinky sheaths rather than body-conscious silhouettes.
Tisci’s use of molten agate prints carried the message that social pressure creates women who are tougher than any substance on Earth.
It is intense pressure over time that creates gemstones, and Tisci’s use of molten agate prints to launch the show carried the message that social pressure creates women who are tougher than any substance on Earth. He also underscored his trail-blazing feminist theme by using a sundial print motif for a hint of 1970s nostalgia – a time when the women’s rights movement started globalizing its initiative. Throughout his strong line-up, Tisci returned time and time again to tailored black suits, some of which featured zipper-attached pockets, or long embellished jackets with ruffled accents at the waist.
There were also several slinky nude, fuchsia, burnt-umber, and mauve sheaths that were strong looks, athletically inclined toward flattering and supporting the female form. A few curious pieces, like multi-colored, sheer, polka dot-printed frocks, kept a feeling of whimsy intact, but it was Tisci’s blush-pink and siren-red fringed dresses that made the biggest splash on social media. Feminism doesn’t have a uniform and, at Givenchy, women can flex the freedom to cover up or reveal according to their own desires.