Roland Mouret’s Architectural New Direction for Spring/Summer 2017

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Interior design informed the architectural nature of Roland Mouret’s splendid Spring/Summer 2017 presentation. Backstage, the designer spoke to the experience of decorating and constructing the interiors of his new flagship store in New York City, which forced him to look at his designs in a different light. How do you create garments that reflect contemporary decor, like the kind you would find upon stepping into Mouret’s world on Madison Avenue? By contrasting and complimenting in equal measure.

Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree

Interior design informed the architectural nature of Roland Mouret’s splendid presentation.

Instead of working his usual body-conscious shapes, Mouret opted for a freer, more expressive arrangement of interlocking, modular pieces that stacked together to create breezy, charming garments. These came with harness-like straps, off-shoulder construction, conical peplums, and handkerchief hemlines. Keyhole embroidery combined with lightweight stripes for contrast on the opening look and continued throughout the collection on bodices that were sliced and cut away to reveal the body, showing just enough to keep a modest theme in place. Gorgeous flourishes came from delicately patchworked surfaces with lace-filled cutouts, as in the case of one radiant-blue peplum top and matching midi skirt.

Fluid designs in solid, opaque fabrics soon gave way to shiny Lurex versions and a closing number of crocheted dresses in monochrome black-and-white shades. This confident collection provided a glimpse at Mouret’s evolution as a designer because it traded in brand signatures like cap sleeves and décolletage-revealing necklines while enhancing the body with intricate, challenging construction.

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