While turmoil and conflict continue to define the 2016 social landscape, Acne Studios’ designer Jonny Johansson has a more optimistic global outlook, choosing to weave a message of open-mindedness and cultural awareness into his Spring/Summer 2017 presentation. Like the kind of wardrobe that a student taking a gap year abroad in Morocco might return home with, Johansson’s designs contain a nomadic, desert theme.
A diverse cast of models also supported Johansson’s globalized theme.
Splashed with paisley – a pattern that originated in the Kashmiri region on the Indian-Pakistani border a millennia ago – the collection centered on a salwar kameez silhouette remodeled in fine cashmere. Johansson repeatedly focused on soft tunics featuring gridwork patterns and drop shoulders, which were paired with slouchy trousers with frayed side seams. The presentation also featured embroidered linen trousers, coarse knitwear resembling Berber blankets, and oversized jackets, robes, and coveralls all embossed with a stippled paisley pattern.
A strong artisanal vein ran through the clothing; jacquard knits were finished with elaborate top-stitching, and patchworked knit sheaths bore all the signs of ethnic origins (one might really expect to find these pieces in a Moroccan market stall rather than on a high-fashion runway). A diverse cast of models also supported Johansson’s globalized theme, and they were accessorized accordingly with sculptural jewelry, unstructured sacs, and embellished flats that were worldly but pragmatic. With a singular focus on daywear that was relaxed in shape, soft to the touch, and tribal to the eye, Acne Studios supported a relentlessly universal aesthetic that broadened the meaning of open-minded, inclusive fashion.