Once again, the fashion crowd gathered at the UNESCO building for what is now one of Paris Fashion Week’s most hotly anticipated shows. For Spring/Summer 2017, we returned to the Loewe woman’s apartment, but this time she had redecorated. As a video called Offshore by artist Magali Reus played on a loop in the background, the audience was arranged around the interior of two immense rooms, surrounded by various objets d’art, which spoke to Jonathan Anderson’s personal obsession with interiors, as well as his desire to draw the audience into a world that feels real and relevant to them. “Domestic. Feminine. Free.” That was the show’s descriptor in three words, but it barely scratches the surface of Loewe’s impossibly brilliant presentation.
By working with raw, unfinished, and treated materials like cotton, nylon, burlap, linen, and leather, Anderson was able to impart a lived-in feel to his clothes. It was an intimate gesture from a man of few words who is more intent on wearing his heart on his sleeve (literally) than on stating his emotions out loud. With delicate care, he transformed coarse fabrics into dreamy dresses, which featured fluted lengths, drawstring hemlines, ruched and puckered sleeves, and breezy volumes. They came in flat, earthy tones and sprouted unfinished hems, frayed edges, and crude stitching, almost as if they had been found after ages of rest in an attic trunk.
Anderson related his work-in-progress theme to the idea of a perfectionist striving for satisfaction.
Even his more elaborately pleated works displayed the same treatment as a result of being washed. Meanwhile, other looks showcased a “splitting at the seams” motif, as was the case of a beautiful navy leather dress that looked like it was in the middle of being stitched together before the model had to hurry down the runway. Additionally, there were frayed tunics and dresses made piecemeal from strips of raw-edged cotton, nude corsets, striped doctor’s coats, peasant blouses with balloon sleeves, pleated dresses with tattered contrast trim and shawls built into the shoulders, and one supremely gorgeous dress made from a tapestry of layered patches – a throwback to last season’s dress made from silk handkerchiefs. “Sometimes things can never be finished,” Anderson stated backstage, relating his work-in-progress theme to the idea of a perfectionist striving for satisfaction.
There were so many amazing designs in this collection – from burnt-out, molded-leather jackets and immense sculptural calla-lily cuffs to dozens of surefire “It” bags and armor-like peplum attachments – that one can appreciate the unhurried feel of the presentation. It gave the audience a chance to take it all in. Fortunately, for the impatient, there are four looks from the runway available for pre-order now at Loewe.com.