A total of 12 Middle Eastern designers traveled from Dubai to Paris this Fashion Week as part of regional fashion platform Fashion Forward’s EPIC x Samsung program. Launched in August, the series of initiatives aims to continually educate, support, and empower local talent through events and the creation of business opportunities – both within and outside the region.
One of these initiatives is the Fashion Forward Showroom in Paris, which has officially opened its doors to industry insiders who are in the French capital for Fashion Week. Not only does it mean exposure for the 12 carefully curated homegrown brands, which include Bil Arabi, Kage, Hâshé, and Amira Haroon, but also increased awareness thanks to Samsung’s involvement. Indeed, showroom visitors will be able to preview the designers’ full collections and past work in real time through the latest technology, thereby enjoying a progressive experience.
Today, Savoir Flair is putting the design spotlight on four of the regional talents who are involved. Scroll through the gallery below and discover the design journeys of Rula Galayini, Andraya Farrag (of Bedouin), Orchid Ganji (of Orkalia), and Nadine Kanso (of Bil Arabi) from Dubai to Paris.
How did you start out in the industry?
I discovered Central Saint Martins when I was about 13 and set my heart on attending. During my placement year, I lived in New York, where I worked with designers such as Marchesa and Edun. After graduating, I moved to India, where I worked for designers such as DVF, overseeing the development of embroidery.
What is your first fashion memory as a designer?
From day one at Central Saint Martins, we began sewing and pattern-cutting classes. We all made the same blazer, from the pattern to the final garment. We got acquainted with the industrial sewing machine and learned various finishes, from bias-binding to the French seam.
What were the challenges you encountered when starting out?
For me, funding was always a challenge. I started with a very small budget, which meant I had to work a little harder, retouching all my own photos, getting friends to model for me, and doing anything and everything myself.
How do you envision developing your brand – any plans of expansion, collaboration, etc?
I would love to expand Bedouin, perhaps begin a travel line or menswear eventually. It would be amazing to open a store in Dubai in the future too!
How do you feel about going to Paris with EPIC this season?
I am really excited to be a part of the EPIC family and to be showcasing in Paris alongside some very talented designers from the region. I have always participated in showrooms in London and Paris, but this one is special because it’s so important to celebrate the talent of the Middle East.
Who would you say influences your designs?
Hussein Chalayan remains one of my favourite conceptual fashion designers as he successfully fuses different disciplines into his fashion, such as music, art, and sculpture. He also comes from the tiny island of Cyprus, where I grew up.
What was your first-ever sketch? Â
The primary study for any of my designs is always an actual, real-life prototype that I make with my own hands. My first-ever “sketch” was a piece of fabric that I cut and taped together. That very same sketch materialized into a handbag that went on to be featured in Wallpaper magazine.
What were some of the challenges you encountered when starting out?
The main challenges were convincing retailers to take a chance on a new brand and actually buy the products, as opposed to working on a consignment basis.
What does being a Middle Eastern brand mean to you?
I proudly stand as a ‘Made in the Middle East’ brand. My company is based in Dubai, and all my products are fully manufactured in Beirut. It is of great importance to the brand to be able to engage with local manufacturers and craftsmen in the hopes of making a significant contribution and helping carry on our overall cultural heritage.
How do you feel about going to Paris with EPIC this season?
Although it’s my third time showing at Paris Fashion Week, this season is especially exciting. I’ve always been a strong advocate of collective efforts. I truly believe that young Arab designers must join forces if they want to resonate on a global level. EPIC has facilitated that, making it realistic and accessible to all those designers who share that aspiration. The interest so far in the showroom has been phenomenal, which is an achievement in itself considering the hectic Paris Fashion Week schedule.
When and how did you fall in love with fashion?
I believe it started in primary school – we had just moved to Germany and I needed an imaginary world of my own to escape to in order to cope with all the sudden changes.
What was the fashion scene like when you started out?
The fashion industry in Dubai in 2010 – when we started Orkalia – was incomparable to what it is today. There was no sense of direction for brands as there was also quite a disconnect with the international fashion industry. As the years went by, they became more knowledgeable in the multitude of ways that they can address fashion.
What’s your favorite memory as a designer?
My favorite moments as a designer usually happen when I am interacting with customers and can sense that they genuinely love the designs. I don’t think there is anything more fulfilling than realizing that what you do is making other people happy. The same can be said for our shows – nothing is better than when every element of a presentation or show links together the way I’d envisioned it, and I see the audience really interact with it.
What were the challenges you encountered when starting out?
As in any other industry, starting on your own, especially at such a young age, can be intimidating. One of the biggest challenges is to learn from and listen to others, but also to go with your own gut feeling. Parents or friends often want to share their opinions with you, either to protect you from failure or to take part in the excitement. It wasn’t until I learnt how to say no to things I wasn’t feeling intuitively that I started really building Orkalia the way I had envisioned it.
How do you feel about going to Paris with EPIC this season?
It’s definitely very exciting, and we are looking forward to great outcomes. On a bigger scale, however, it’s exciting to be part of the first batch of regional designers that will be showcasing under the helm of Fashion Forward with the support of the Dubai Design & Fashion Council.
How did you start out in the industry?
Bil Arabi started ten years ago, after my first photography show Meen Ana (who I am) touched upon the Arab identity issue after 9/11 and how us Arabs were perceived. I felt that my photographs were not enough to voice the statement of how proud we should be of our identity and culture and decided to create Arabic-letter jewelery to have my message spread on a wider scale.
What influenced your love for design early on?
I will always remember the black-and-white Egyptian and Lebanese movies in which the actresses were so elegant and chic. While growing up, I always had an eye for products, and that became stronger as I majored in graphic design.
What’s your favorite memory as a designer?
My first pop-up in Kuwait with my dear friend Shurouq Al Ghanim, and the show that I was invited to participate in with Sheikh Majed Al Sabah at Design Miami.
What influences your work ethic?
I have created a unique line, and my influences are Arab identity and calligraphy. I also love Lebanese artist Samir Al Sayegh’s work – I would say he is the closest to what I relate to.
