The dark, theatrical glamour that ruled Lanvin’s runway during Alber Elbaz’s 14-year tenure has faded into the background, along with the brand’s nighttime slot on the Paris Fashion Week calendar. Lanvin now has a new daytime position on the schedule and a new lease on life thanks to the uncompromising direction imparted by new Creative Director Bouchra Jarrar.
With Jarrar’s reign comes a subtle repositioning of house codes – there is more daywear, more lightness, more ease of spirit – and the expectation that Lanvin will return to its former glory. She and predecessor Elbaz both hold deep regard for women from all walks of life, and both are eager to celebrate femininity. Their only difference is their approach. Where Elbaz exhausted the realm of high-octane glamour, Jarrar prefers a quieter, more serene approach that pits retooled menswear against airy, sheer layers. But that is not to suggest that this collection was lacking glamour. Indeed, Jarrar’s delicate fringed chains, elegant handbags, embellished flats, and sequined slips boosted the appeal of her understated message.
With Jarrar’s reign comes a subtle repositioning of house codes and the expectation that Lanvin will return to its former glory.
An elegantly layered look launched the show, featuring a white tuxedo blazer and relaxed matching trousers that were paired with a sheer, striped, floor-length button-up and flat, bedazzled sandals. This look alone signaled the carefree-but-polished attitude of the collection, which Jarrar reaffirmed with nonchalant awning-striped separates, streamlined sheaths with contrasting fabrics, casual silk smoking jackets, walking shorts, and fuzzy cardigans.
For those looking for a little va-va-voom, there were sheer, lace-trimmed slips, bouclé tweed jackets trimmed with marabou feathers, glossy sequined tanks, gorgeous cobalt-blue frocks, and glittering gold sheaths. Molded-leather motorcycle jackets and breezy floral maxi dresses were among some of her best looks, as were several gorgeous, slinky cocktail gowns that closed the show. “I am fully conscious of my responsibility. I look at things calmly. I weigh up the situation. I create to sell,” Jarrar recently told the New York Times. And sell she will.