Ruching Done Right by Salvatore Ferragamo for Spring/Summer 2017

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Salvatore Ferragamo joins the likes of Marni and Sportmax in getting on board the ruching trend for Spring/Summer 2017, albeit with a more subtle and refined approach.

It is virtually impossible to not notice a common theme weaving its way through Milan’s presentations for Spring/Summer 2017, as collections by Marni, Sportmax, Versace, and others seem obsessed with a similar technique: bunching, ruching, and pull-cord designs. This could be blamed on sheer coincidence, but we suspect that it’s because Milan’s designers are currently interested in how to create intricate surface tensions within a simpler framework of classic silhouetting. It’s a smart idea as these puckered, drawn surfaces pull increasingly complex shapes from basic styles, and it is on Salvatore Ferragamo’s runway that we saw a beautifully refined version of this concept.

Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree

With Fulvio Rigoni recently replacing Massimiliano Giornetti at the helm, you would think there wouldn’t be enough time to construct a new wing of Ferragamo’s aesthetic. Rigoni, however, managed just that – and with graceful panache to boot. His sublimely feminine collection contained all the codes we expect to see next year, developed in floral fabrics, cozy knitwear, minimalist separates, and luxe outerwear – all of which were ruched, wrapped, and pulled into cool, fashion-forward shapes.

An elastic-corded neckline on a fitted floral frock launched the show, cluing us into the aforementioned design trend. It continued to appear on ruched dresses, bonnet-like gathered sleeves, and pucker-front daywear. Flawless exteriors informed a more minimal selection of chic suiting, except in the case of one raspberry-red pantsuit that was shown in perforated leather. While some of the looks tended to be boxy and scrunched, reinforced structures kept the clothes from looking awkward. There was a lightness and effortlessness to Rigoni’s work, underscored by a clear understanding of where fashion is headed for the next season. It’s safe to say that the muted coolness of this collection demonstrates that Ferragamo’s future is in talented hands.

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