Materials with ‘humble origins’, combined with punky disdain for tradition and crafty textiles, made for a Spring/Summer 2017 collection from Christopher Kane unlike any other.
While most chose to focus on Christopher Kane’s unexpected collaboration with Crocs for Spring/Summer 2017 (which were, in our opinion, rather “take it or leave it”), what was overlooked in his London Fashion Week presentation was its exquisite craftsmanship. Kane’s 10th-anniversary collection was themed around the concept of ‘Make-Do and Mend’ – the kind of resourceful message that is close to the heart of his irrepressibly inventive aesthetic. Materials with ‘humble origins’, combined with punky disdain for tradition and crafty textiles, made for a Spring/Summer 2017 collection unlike any other.
A decade ago, when Kane presented his graduate collection in 2006, it was the ‘Make-Do and Mend’ ethos that caught the notice of industry insiders. His debut work featured scraps and bits of material found at the local market, which were reworked into inventive – but colloquially identifiable – forms. Origin themes appeared throughout the show on mini dresses made from strips of fabric held together by metal rings, looks printed from old Polaroids, and cardigans suspended with metallic rivets.
Plastic raincoats, fur skirts, and other Kane classics also appeared on the catwalk, alongside vascular body-conscious dresses outfitted with sprays of pop art florals and pretty, lightweight tulle dresses embossed with ropey multi-colored squiggles. Glittering Lurex dresses and lightning print separates with whip-stitched accents were also in the mix, while flirty plissé metallics combined with sheer and opaque panels made for the kind of frocks that will disappear quickly from retail shelves come spring.