There are a multitude of methods for remixing a song: keep the melody and weave in samples and a new beat, increase or decrease the tempo, clutter the track with new samples thereby hybridizing the sound – the list goes on ad infinitum. For Antonio Berardi’s Spring/Summer 2017 presentation, the designer chose to remix his own work by keeping the baseline of his signature crisp suiting and feminine silhouettes in tact and blending in airy, graceful elements like electrified fringe, unfinished seams, layered waterfall ruffles, and a dusting of crystal encrusted accents. Pictures do not do this harmonious collection justice, as they create a stagnant image of clothes that are meant to be appreciated for their movement.
Suiting on Berardi’s runway was sublime and sensual, as opaque, corseted structures were layered over sheer leg ‘o mutton-sleeve tops, kimono blouses, and handkerchief-hemmed shirt dresses. Later versions of the suit were done in paisley brocades and fitted with ruffled peplum hems. Berardi also presented an ethereal assembly of airy slip dresses – some with cascading waterfall ruffles and mullet hems – which were completed with tassel fringe or marabou feather trim.
Like any good remix, success is found in drawing something new from the old, and these beautiful offerings prove Berardi’s expansion into a new genre of style.
The designer admitted the origin of his decadent accents, citing the late great Prince as influence for his runway’s extravagant extremes like the crystal-embellished harness-strapped suits and halter gowns that closed the show. By working in opposites – sheer and opaque madras plaids combined for a single blouse, feathered seams on solid suits, and dense patterns layered over monochrome shirts – the designer aimed to highlight a “suspension between two states”. Like any good remix, success is found in drawing something new from the old, and these beautiful offerings prove Berardi’s expansion into a new genre of style.