Mary Katrantzou Returns to Her Native Greek Roots for Spring 2017

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While this presentation underscored Katrantzou’s talent for prints and patterns, and returned the designer to her native Greek roots, the onslaught of optical illusions doubled by a mirrored runway left us feeling a little dizzy.

The ancient meets the modern at Mary Katrantzou’s Spring/Summer 2017 presentation at London Fashion Week, as Grecian prints collide with vivid optical illusions. Katrantzou’s talent for trompe l’oeil design and brilliant prints carry over into this collection, but the combination of Greek and pop art patterns made for a funny fit that felt a bit forced at times. While, on one hand, the vibrant offerings looked great on the runway and will photograph well for editorial and social media purposes, it is hard to imagine the average woman being convinced of this collection’s place in her wardrobe.

Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree

The marriage of meandros borders featuring Greek key designs, Greek scenery, and geometric pattern work caused a soporific effect as the patterns and enormous spectrum of colors concentrated in clashing combinations. They were sent out on long tunic tees, tailored trousers, and flirty shift dresses, in a silhouette that Katrantzou said was inspired by the clothes of ancient Minoan women.

It is hard to imagine the average woman being convinced of this collection’s place in her wardrobe.

The psychedelic range grew bolder as Katrantzou crafted looks out of mosaic tiling, astonishing fan pleated accents, and chained multicolored Perspex disc overlays. These worked to pull the hourglass nature of the silhouette into hyper-focus, whittling the waist down to a central point. Floor-scraping ‘hobble’ skirts and blazer tops combined for the finale, each featuring a broad range of hues and Greek embroidery. While this presentation underscored Katrantzou’s talent for prints and patterns, and returned the designer to her native Greek roots, the onslaught of optical illusions doubled by a mirrored runway left us feeling a little dizzy.

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