Somehow Marc Jacobs' irreverent mashup of color, texture, pattern, hair, and even decades had a certain appealing recklessness that was so visually energizing.
The last show of New York Fashion Week included 1,500 dangling light bulbs and pastel-coloured dreadlocks that would make even Boy George proud. Set on 34th street’s Hammerstein Ballroom, Marc Jacobs turned an opera house into a surreal Harajuku schoolgirl rave for Spring/Summer 2017. To do this, he enlisted Stefan Beckam, who was also responsible for Coach’s impressive set this season, to conjure up a steamy nightclub via smoke machines, red lights, and bouts of glossy paint intended to resemble puddles of sweat splattered throughout the runway-slash-raveway.
The world’s most popular squad got the invite to Studio Marc Jacobs, including Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Taylor Hill, Karlie Kloss, and Adriana Lima. Prior to the show, Courtney Love sent a tweet with the message “long live the 90s” – an indicator of the dress code to come.
We wouldn’t be surprised if a toned-down version of this ravewear replaces athleisure in the future trend cycle.
There were lace baby-doll dresses, jean jackets, and Spice Girl-approved lace-up pink platforms with bedazzled heels, but Jacobs strayed from the full-on return to the 90s we’ve been seeing from most shows this season by incorporating elements of Marie Antoinette into his looks. Kiki Willems opened the show in a baroque metallic doublet jacket, and Grace Cheng’s brocade dress with ruched sleeves, pale pink ribbon bow, and lavish lace collar all called to mind the queen’s court. Meanwhile, Gigi Hadid swaggered down the runway in a multi-color suede patchwork coat, confirming Jacobs had his eye on the 70s, 90s, and Versailles. Somehow this irreverent mashup of color, texture, pattern, hair, and even decades had a certain appealing recklessness that was so visually energizing, we wouldn’t be surprised if a toned-down version of this ravewear replaces athleisure in the future trend cycle.