Fashion – in the abstract – is an art form, which in the aesthetic tradition can compel the observer toward powerful emotions: hurt, wonder, terror, delight. One need look no further than the Marchesa Spring/Summer 2017 collection for evidence of fashion’s power to provoke. The eveningwear brand and its Oscar-worthy gowns are part of the predictable fabric of New York Fashion Week’s lineup, but this gossamer display felt different somehow. The artful rendering of iridescent fabrics and sparkling embroidery made Marchesa’s woodland nymphs a spectacle of beauty and, if you weren’t gasping at least at a couple of the looks, you might need to get in touch with your emotional side. Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig’s lyrical collection contained some true magic.
The resulting effect was a kaleidoscopic pastel palette that shimmered under the runway lights.
While beautiful red-carpet gowns are Marchesa’s calling card, the brand’s featherweight approach to the spring season made for a truly sonorous display of craft and creativity. Opening looks were comprised of ruffled layers of faintly dyed tulle, and the resulting effect was a kaleidoscopic pastel palette that shimmered under the runway lights. Every conceivable style of gown benefited from the rich intensity of gleaming fabrics, delicately embroidered florals, and crystal embellishment.
The extravagant styles of the Roaring 20s never seem to be far from the design duo’s mind, and the audience was treated to a smattering of fluid, fringed looks with Art Deco equestrian embroidery. It’s safe to say, however, that no flapper has ever seen finery like this, and the multi-tiered fringe dresses caused a real stir on the front row. We look forward to seeing them a second time around on the red carpet.