Since Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow of cult streetwear label Public School took over as the co-creative designers at DKNY, the duo has struggled to find its footing. Although they have given the brand’s signature blazer every kind of re-working imaginable, their collections as a whole failed to find the right blend of personality and commercialism necessary for DKNY’s continued success. However, that all changed radically today on DKNY’s Spring/Summer 2017 runway with a pitch-perfect presentation that showcased a strong new direction for the brand.
Instead of swaddling the body in bulky layers, Osborne and Chow opted for an overtly sensual silhouette. Bella Hadid stunned as the show opener in a dip-front top and mini skirt, signaling the kind of clothes that emerging “It” girls everywhere are sure to clamor for. Sporty streetwear and menswear blazers are the brand’s calling card, and they’ve never looked better than what blazed down the Spring/Summer 2017 runway.
We predict that this collection will be a big hit with social-media stars.
After Hadid made her striking appearance, the show continued with a series of oversized blazers, mini skirts, thigh-high stockings, and bandeaus, which were worn with severely cropped turtlenecks and high-waisted skirts. One part school girl and one part vixen, the looks were easy to wear but provocative – the balance was perfect. Additionally, the collection was piled high with an enviable selection of raw-edged hoodies with overlong sleeves, mullet-hemmed shirting, utilitarian jumpsuits, parkas, and cutout sweatshirts.
Toward the end of the collection, Osborne and Chow expanded into more avant-garde territory, showing a selection of see-through rain jackets, logo-branded jogging pants, and ‘parachute’ dresses that featured crumpled pockets and sheer ruffled peplum layers. The collection closed with baggy pinstriped suits – familiar territory for fans of DKNY’s 90s uptown cool – but the louche attitude of these suits was far more convincing than previous efforts by Osborne and Chow. We predict that this collection will be a huge favorite of social-media stars, so expect these looks on a social feed near you very, very soon.