Joseph Altuzarra has long drawn inspiration from the film world for his collections, name-checking cult hits like Roman Polanski’s Rosemary’s Baby for Spring/Summer 2015 and Jim Jarmusch’s Only Lovers Left Alive for Fall/Winter 2016. For Spring/Summer 2017, references to David Lynch’s under-the-radar film Wild at Heart, starring Nicholas Cage and Laura Dern, were felt in the kitschy non-conformity of lemon-appliquéd blazers and cherry-blossom fitted sweaters. Art appreciation was served by additional references to Erwan Frotin’s ‘Echinopsis’, which inspired the show’s peony prints, and Tom Wesselmann’s ‘Bedroom Painting, No. 7’, which underscored the collection’s juicy pops of color.
Throughout the collection, Altuzarra’s designs treaded the line of modesty, but they never came across as too risqué.
Although Altuzarra painstakingly crafts his clothes to flatter the female form and works closely with his clients to assure confident fits, this collection was friskier and riskier when it came to exposed flesh. The first look bared the body beneath a fitted blazer, with a flirty ruffled bandeau and high-waisted pencil skirt offering a youthful update on the three-piece look. Throughout the collection, Altuzarra’s designs treaded the line of modesty, but they never came across as too risqué.
Vivid prints and optic graphics came together in bold combinations that often clashed, making this a collection rife with mix-and-match potential. The free spirit of Dern’s character in Wild at Heart might have provided the collection’s attitude, but it was Cage’s character, Sailor Ripley, that stood out the most. Ripley’s iconic snakeskin jacket was re-worked by Altuzarra into a variety of snakeskin trenches and blazers, each trimmed with either cherry blossoms or dainty panels of lace. Brand signatures like the slit pencil skirt and sophisticated shirtdress were abundant on the Spring/Summer 2017 runway and were offered up in versions ranging from ribbed knits to gingham checks. Between the sultry summertime vibe and the re-imagined three-piece looks, Altuzarra’s collection is fit for both work and play.