High-jewelry brand de Grisogono is one to keep firmly on your accessories wish list. Exceptional stones, cuts, colors, light, volume, movement, and artful setting techniques are characteristics of this Swiss luxury jeweler, all of which combine to result in unrivaled craftsmanship. In 2016, de Grisogono introduced its ‘Folies’ collection, a very special selection of high-jewelry pieces focusing on top-grade diamonds and colored stones, at the 28th edition of Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris.
Here, founder Fawaz Gruosi’s exceptional brand grants Savoir Flair exclusive insight into the craftsmanship behind the ‘Folies’ high-jewelry ring, one of the collection’s masterpieces. Witness the 62-carat diamond-and-ruby ring’s evolution from “loose stone to the finger” in the gallery below – pure magic in the making by de Grisogono’s skilled artisans.
“Once the model and drawing get validated by Mr. Gruosi, the jeweler’s work begins. A wax model is created to faithfully represent the drawing, a stage that is critical as it will allow an understanding of the ring’s volume as well as the positioning and number of stones required. The goal is to achieve a flawless aesthetic. The various elements composing the ring are first created in wax, which is then used to create molds in gold, also known as castings. These castings are then cleaned, open-worked with volutes and round holes, and finally polished before they can be assembled into the final piece and set with the desired gemstones.”
“This casting of the back of the ring shows already open-worked volutes, a brand signature pattern. It is now necessary to open the holes by hand, one by one, using a saw in order for the setting to take place.”
“Since 2000, when the first creation starring multiple facets of briolette-cut stones was revealed, de Grisogono has continued to reinvent the use of this multiple-faceted stone and improve its exclusive gem-setting technique. The 47 briolette-cut rubies are sewn by hand, one by one, on a gold ring using a gold thread. These moving briolettes compose an amazing corolla of rubies worth 44.20 carats.”
“All the elements are now done and ready for the setting. Beforehand, the jeweler performs a trial assembly to make sure all the elements fit together.”
“He starts by placing the central stone in a gold basket in order to assure that it sits perfectly between the prongs and to see if it’s aesthetically suitable.”
“This extraordinary, brilliantly cut diamond of 14.20 carats deserves to be the center stone and enhanced by the corolla’s glistening rubies.”
“As a trial, the jeweler will assemble all the components; he will place the open-worked metal plate on the back of the ring and screw the body of the ring and inner elements that are open-worked with volutes.”
“Once all the components are assembled and controlled, all the elements are disassembled to be set.”
“The setter starts with the central stone, which is placed back into the previously approved gold basket.”
“Prongs are pulled down, shortened, and finally set with glittering, brilliant-cut rubies.”
“After the final assembly, the gold grains are plated with black rhodium, which means this amazing creation is almost finished. A last, important step has to be done: quality control. Once completed, this outstanding ring can go adorn the finger of its lucky owner.”