Stéphane Rolland’s picturesque collection for Fall 2016 Couture played up the sculptural side of his skill set.
Stéphane Rolland’s picturesque collection for Fall 2016 Couture played up the sculptural side of his skill set, with each gown displaying both a striking silhouette and extraordinary cutout details. The intimate setting of the presentation, Rolland’s headquarters on Avenue George V, amplified the serenity of his collection, which bloomed and blossomed like the opening of new petals on a morning glory.
His collection bloomed and blossomed like the opening of new petals on a morning glory.
As the models held their poses, the feeling that Rolland had chiseled the gowns out of obsidian seized hold, but what looked stiff and sculpted was actually made from malleable wool crepe or flannel jersey. The columns of his gowns were flanked by undulating gills in contrasting colors or were finished with shocking neck-to-ankle “openwork” that revealed bare flesh below. Gauzy, ethereal gowns were weighed down with rosewood buckskin mosaics and crystal, while plush bubble-skirted dresses made an impact in overlapping “yin-yang” monochrome.
What was most impressive, however, was Rolland’s use of white mink, which was crocheted into oversized stitches and transformed into a seriously gorgeous cape. Crocheted mink is certainly a new and surprising element to find on Rolland’s couture stage, but it more than held its own amid a compelling and memorable array of avant-garde gowns.