After a month of collections that spanned the four fashion capitals, it would take a lot for a show to really garner the attention of editors and buyers who have been looking at, and reviewing, clothes for weeks on end.
It would make good business sense for a brand like Miu Miu, which always ends up being the very last show of the week, to cast a wide net of supermodels and “It” girls to walk its show, which was exactly the case today as Joan Smalls, Emily Ratajowski, Bella Hadid, Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, Irina Shayk, Taylor Hill, Adriana Lima, Lara Stone, and Sara Sampaio walked down the runway, much to the delight of the audience. Yet a formidable designer like Miuccia Prada doesn’t require the smoke and mirrors of such an elaborate spectacle, because her work is strong enough to stand on its own — which is why today’s casting was all the more interesting. Miu Miu’s decision to include these girls was not a transparent ploy to garner social-media buzz; it was a deliberate casting to ensure that the best models in the biz — each one completely different from the next — could convey the unique message behind every look (or rather series of looks).
A formidable designer such as Miuccia Prada doesn’t require the smoke and mirrors of such an elaborate spectacle, because her work is strong enough to stand on its own.
There was something for everyone at the show today, and you would be forgiven for mixing up your seasons at the start of the show, when a series of denim outfits, almost entirely belonging to the spring/summer line-up, appeared. Subsequent to that, there were velvet pantsuits and coats — can we confirm that velvet is the biggest trend of the season now? — argyle knitwear, jacquard blooms, fur-embellished separates, and ruched and ruffled smocks. It was all really surreal, as the supermodels whizzed by, and there was no easily identifiable common thread, but most looks were supremely beautiful, with a modish 60s quality to them.
In a very rare misstep, the only questionable series of looks was a set of heavy-looking jackets and coats that had an Amish-meets-Elizabethan vibe to them. The collars were outdated, the looks were stiff, and the 60s theme really rang true here as the fabrics looked like they’d been plucked straight off the upholstery of a commercial-grade 60s-era sofa. In true fashion, Prada, with the help of stylist Katie Grand, who after a brief hiatus is collaborating with the designer once again, picked up the pace of the show with a series of thrilling final looks (and some stunning bow-adorned jeweled heels) that will keep us going until the next season. À la prochaine.