Roland Mouret juxtaposes decadent Victoriana velvets with 1970s “Art Rock” bohemia and geometric complexity.
To reach the grandiose salon inside the Hôtel Potocki where Roland Mouret’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection was shown at Paris Fashion Week, one must cross through a circular pink room with high floor-to-ceiling mirrors. This is where the beautifully bedecked patrons of Mouret’s cosmopolitan aesthetic could be found snapping selfies for Instagram before and after the show, but it is also an apropos reflection of how the old informs the new – there is something about that gilded interior that contrasts so well with contemporary fashion. In a sense, that is the thesis of Mouret’s collection, which juxtaposed decadent Victoriana velvets with 1970s “Art Rock” bohemia and fashion-forward geometric complexity. The results created a feeling of modern romance in shapes that conformed elegantly to the body.
As far as Mouret collections go, this one was rife with versatility.
While geometric compositions and patterns have played out on the Mouret runway plenty of times before, it was his elevated use of textures that informed this collection the most. The central material, velvet, has made a roaring comeback for Fall/Winter 2016 and made its way onto many of his looks. It was bonded to surfaces to bring dimensionality to flat prints, and it was used to especially nice effect on tailored separates and fluid skirts touched with dark blossoms.
As far as Mouret collections go, this one was rife with versatility. Hemlines skimmed thighs, calves, and ankles at varying lengths, allowing plenty of options for day and evening. There were even cropped trousers and crisp biker jackets in the mix. Evening styles took on a monochrome palette, which was beautiful when black-and-white honeycomb patterns emerged across the surface of fitted dresses with single sleeve attachments. One of the best looks of the show came toward the end in the form of a velvet-trimmed black cape worn with a sheer lace-and-honeycomb-mesh top and slim-cut velvet trousers. It was Old World meets New World in perfect harmony and capitalized on Mouret’s new form of modern romance in a way that evoked instant desire.