Phoebe Philo does not need a narrative to explain her collections – they are reliably that good. Her influence is felt throughout the industry to the point where her rarefied aesthetic has infiltrated other designers’ work at large (just Google “the Céline effect” if you have any doubts). Her only explanation for Fall/Winter 2016 was “volumes and textures” and that was enough to satisfy the curious, because the clothes spoke for themselves. Inside of an industrial concrete cavern at Tennis Club de Paris, the brand presented a nomadic, earthy collection, set to a live music soundtrack designed by Philo’s frequent collaborator, FOS, that surprised no one for containing the most covetable crop of clothes.
Lately, the story in fashion has been high necks, elongated silhouettes, and comfortable fits, and there were plenty of effortlessly chic pieces along these lines to invest in at Céline for Fall/Winter 2016. However, amid this most agreeable format was conceptual knitwear, done in glittering bouclé fabrics or plush wool textures. One only had a single armhole/sleeve, others had asymmetrical sleeves that slumped down across the torso, and some had these fantastic cape attachments at the back that looked as if they could be pulled over the head as hoods if needs be. The orange version especially had instant buy-now appeal.
Worn with flat sandals, Philo’s collection took on a trans-seasonal personality, which befits her global consumer.
If wearing pajamas during the day has become a “thing” in fashion, few brands have accomplished a more sophisticated take on the trend than Céline. Philo’s mannish loungewear separates were actually cool enough that you wouldn’t feel silly stepping into the boardroom in one of them and were notably smart when finished with oversized lapels and leather trim. Pair those with a utilitarian leather trench in cerulean blue, or a textured snakeskin all-weather coat, and you have yourself a look worth gloating about.
Throughout this artfully constructed collection were surprising juxtapositions of ruched silk tunics, which softened the march of masculine proportions and leather exteriors. Some of them even featured jet-black beading details that offered a trompe l’oeil take on belts and pockets. Worn with flat sandals, Philo’s collection took on a trans-seasonal personality, which befits her global consumer. While we might inclined to pursue answers to better explain why Philo exalted the nomad this season, she is someone whose instincts you are wise to trust. Céline’s innate enigmatic, ineffable nature is what thrills and compels, but there is no mystery to the magnetic allure of this collection.