Some girls can wear Acne Studios’ designs enviably well. The brand’s avant-garde, gender-bending silhouettes aren’t for everyone, but collections that appeal to everyone are mostly pretty boring to the fashionado who might actually be the one buying and wearing them – but even those girls might find it difficult to pull off Acne this time around. Fall/Winter 2016 acted as a sartorial tribute to American underground punk band The Cramps, especially the way that guitarist Poison Ivy experimented with glitter textiles and revealing cuts. She was a daring dresser and, if you follow her lead through life, Acne’s collection will hold interest. If, however, you prefer to stay away from prismatic leotards, leopard-printed tops with pick-up guard attachments, and crumpled jumpsuits, don’t write this presentation off just yet; there were also lots of cozy knits and glossy leather outerwear that make sense for the sensible.
If you prefer to stay away from prismatic leotards, leopard-printed tops with pick-up guard attachments, and crumpled jumpsuits, don’t write this presentation off just yet.
A drop-shoulder patterned coat opened the show, and it offered a quiet moment before a storm of artfully arranged shapes appeared that peeled off the shoulder or were tacked up by metal buttons. The next look offered oddball quirkiness in the form of a glossy gray leather leotard, which was worn with a ribbed sheer bodysuit, thigh-high knit legwarmers, and an asymmetrical shoulder attachment that was a cross between a shrug and a scarf. Swollen wool jumpsuits came after, followed by a dress in similar form. These masculine pieces did little to flatter the shape of the body, but maybe that wasn’t the point to begin with. Also in the mix were lurid striped vinyl sheaths, oversized wool pants that were worn low on the hip, and off-shoulder toppers made from quilted lining.
Creative Director Jonny Johansson loves conceptual designs, so he experimented with leather that was bonded with fine metal in order to create crinkly textures. This experimental material appeared as baggy jumpsuits, vests, and a cool gray rain jacket. For the novelty seeker, this collection had plenty of offbeat looks, but it’s hard to see how most of this would play in the average wardrobe.