With all of the neo-Romanticism on the runways thanks to the Victorian and Edwardian style revivals of seasons past, it seems only natural that so many collections would devote themselves to the poncy flush of velvet fabric. Rochas is another one that fell sway to velvet’s romantic powers for Fall/Winter 2016, but with elongated tailoring and relaxed silhouettes Rochas’ story felt more 1970s than 1870s. While it was clear that designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua was interpreting the mood of the season according to the reemergence of old-fashioned styles made new again, he did not apply velvet with a heavy hand like Giorgio Armani did at his Milan show. Instead, it was used to act as a counterweight to light, fluid florals, crinkly/ruffly tops and dresses, minimalist outerwear, prismatic glitter frocks, and more.
As individual pieces or as pre-packaged looks, there is plenty to love in this Rochas collection, albeit none of it is new to fashion.
The show started off light and easy with a striped pajama-like dress, which was styled with colorful knit socks and sky-high platform peep-toes (a favorite of the Instagram crowd today). A peachy-pink trench with seamless pockets and mustard trousers followed, demonstrating the collection’s central motif of mixed color pairings. While some designers slap you in the face with incongruous palettes, there was something very subtle and simple about the way Dell’Acqua paired together taupe, forest green, burnt orange, salmon, baby pink, moss green, periwinkle blue, and other vivid hues in ways that clashed but ultimately, somehow, complemented. Although it was a fall collection, Rochas showed lots of gauzy slip dresses and frocks, some printed with springtime florals and others in pale pleated nudes – a nod perhaps to trans-seasonal dressing, which has gained traction in the industry this year.
As individual pieces or as pre-packaged looks, there is plenty to love in this Rochas collection, albeit none of it is new to fashion. Well-executed, beautiful clothes will always sell, however, which means many women will respond to the show’s sublimely cut, low-slung, textured trousers, forest-green velvet dresses with pussybow ties, chiffon and bespoke lace skirts, galactic glitter outerwear and sweaters, and lush furs. It was all fashionable without being too much or overly styled, which is a lesson some designers could learn from the patient and gifted Dell’Acqua.