Is it just us or is the world getting crazier? It’s easy to feel that way when you’re being bombarded by terrifying headlines around the clock. Weirdly enough, the truth is, society is more stable than it’s ever been. It just seems like the sky is falling because we are now so technologically interconnected that we hear about events more often and more quickly than any other generation of humans that have come before us. Still, there is plenty of reactionary fodder being gobbled up and churned out by the media, and it makes a girl want to protect herself from the bad news. For Fall/Winter 2016, Dean and Dan Caten of Dsquared2 provide the armor for doing just that, but they also argue that there’s no reason you shouldn’t look sensational while swaddling yourself in metaphorically protective layers. Their signature piled-on styling was imbued with militaristic attitude this season, as DSquared2 looked to samurais, the army, and Mongolian warlords for fashion inspiration. In these unlikely sources, they found a staggering array of good ideas.
From the samurais, they borrowed intricately worked breastplates, kozane scales, and silk lacing, which were translated onto densely embroidered coats with shoulder armor. From Western military regimes they pulled navy jackets with gold braiding, camo print, and khaki green knits, and and from Genghis Khan and his army they borrowed immense Mongolian shearling with exotic surface-work. All of these elements were combined on single looks to dizzying effect, especially when the Caten brothers decided to style these massive textural canopies with statement earrings, feathered footwear, embroidered bangles, and more. Also in the mix was a strange homage to Victorian-era styles that appeared to be included for no other reason than it looked cool.
DSquared2 looked to samurais, the army, and Mongolian warlords for fashion inspiration. In these unlikely sources, they found a staggering array of good ideas.
Breaking down one of these manic looks requires more descriptive skills than usual. One model appeared in a lampshade doily capelet that seemed to overlap with a throat-climbing beaded tapestry that was intricately woven. She also wore a white tee, a “tattooed” bodysuit, mesh leggings, camo jodhpurs, beaded and feathered footwear with silk cord details, and carried not one but two leather shoulder bags. Each look followed the same confusing equation, but unbelievably enough, the results were actually quite alluring. Those Mongolian fur coats alone are worth their weight in gold. By the end of the show, you think the Catens would have exhausted their supply of ideas, but they instead turned to an unexpected look – call it Vampiric Victoriana. Their bloodthirsty vixens wore fur-trimmed denim jackets with floor-sweeping back panels, silk maxi skirts, longline black coats, and aloof Victorian silk jackets with puffed shoulders. Talk about ideal eveningwear for the night-loving crowd.