Blumarine Shows Floral and Fur for Fall/Winter 2016

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The real selling point of the Blumarine collection was its mink accessories. Chances are, these pieces will be snapped up more quickly than everything else in the collection combined.

For Fall/Winter 2016, Blumarine’s collection was all over the place. While designer Anna Molinari spoke of Helmut Newton’s 90s era advertising campaigns for the brand as a source of inspiration, there was nothing of Newton’s seductive schoolgirl subject to be found in the collection. Instead, the presentation provided an array of mink-trimmed, socialite looks next to fusty and old-fashioned frocks in modest proportions. The split personality of the show could have been avoided had the latter category not been present. Instead Molinari would have done well to focus solely on her well-heeled Lurex plissé skirts and dresses, fur coats and toppers, and romantic sheer lace eveningwear.

While designer Anna Molinari spoke of Helmut Newton’s 90s era advertising campaigns for the brand as a source of inspiration, there was nothing of Newton’s seductive schoolgirl subject to be found in the collection.

Photo: Courtesy of Imaxtree

The show begins with a graceful selection of powder blue fur outerwear, gleaming chiffon dresses printed with blurred flowers, shaggy multi-colored striped coats, and one particularly lovely pale teal bib-front dress trimmed with a band of mink at the hem. Due to the pastel palette and playful decorative elements, this portion of the show was dainty and feminine, but Molinari didn’t stay tapped into that vein for long. From color-blocked silks and breezy florals, the show moved into a heavier selection of wool neutrals and knits. These are fine options for the working woman, but Blumarine’s cashmere knit tops and hot pants were a rather frightening proposition for anyone to pull off. Bombastic floral prints, leopard spots, and color-blocked sequins pulled attention away from the brand’s better offerings, like a pure crimson silk dress that was swishy and sublime and gorgeous sheer frock covered in sparkly fringe made from strands of jet-black bugle beads. The real selling point of the collection was Blumarine’s mink accessories, which showed up on every look as puffball earrings, belts, sandals, hoods, tote bags, and more. Chances are, these pieces will be snapped up more quickly than everything else in the collection combined.

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