For Fall/Winter 2016 at Versace, provocation took a back seat to confident athleticism, sophisticated daywear, and colorful outerwear.
Where Versace has always been overtly provocative, the aesthetic is slowly changing season to season. For Fall/Winter 2016, provocation took a back seat to confident athleticism, sophisticated daywear, and colorful outerwear. Versace has finally moved beyond the slinky jumpsuit and the barely-there mini dress… mostly. The brand found its muse in both the real girl and the celebrity, with Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner representing the latter. In toned-down, athletic looks that were tightly tailored to their figures, they were both excellent representatives of Versace’s new direction.
Versace has finally moved beyond the slinky jumpsuit and the barely-there mini dress… mostly.
Hadid led the show, walking hips forward in a navy duffle coat that unzipped at the front and was sliced at the elbows. From beneath, a tiny leather mini skirt reminded us that this was a Versace show. More tailored looks for day emerged in the form of supple winter coats trimmed with leather, and body-conscious dresses that modestly reached the knee and wrist. Structured leather jackets, crop tops, and skin-tight leggings introduced the athletic theme, which was further supported by many après-ski looks including knit sweaters, and ski suits transformed into mini dresses. Diamond cross-hatching patterns and bold striping offered structured geometry that lent athletic strength to the looks as well – they made a particularly bold splash in shades of neon and pastel. Midway through the show, Versace expanded its range of prints to include kaleidoscopic, abstract versions that traced intricate lines over the surface of separates and shrunken mini dresses, and then the wavy prints were scaled back to basic form and were left to trail down the front of short sheaths. These wavy lines appeared again as trim on jagged suit lapels, and on one extremely covetable color-blocked cashmere coat. Toward the end, looks alternated between candy-colored sequined mini dresses and serious black suiting, proving there are many versions of Versace’s confident styles that are worthy of investment in the forthcoming season.