Emilio Pucci was no stranger to the slopes — in fact he was a proficient skier who got his start in fashion by designing skiwear for White Stag in 1948 before opening his first boutique the following year on the Italian island of Capri. While he is now well-regarded as the designer who put 1970s jet-set style on the map, and made it the envy of women everywhere, his clothes were often more appropriate for sandy tropical beaches than powdery bluffs. For his second collection at Emilio Pucci, designer Massimo Giorgetti revives the earliest days of Pucci’s career with a presentation that is guaranteed to make a delightful, colorful splash against a snowy backdrop. His take on skiwear is both literal and figurative, with the former represented in body-hugging printed ski-suits and puffy parkas, while the latter is found on alpine prints that leap from sweaters and dresses alike.
Although Giorgetti’s first collection for Pucci last season didn’t completely thrill the critics, this presentation was a perfect point of origin this season for a brand that got its start on the slopes.
Giorgetti was interested in reviving Pucci’s ski days because lately he’s been thinking about the jetset. In the 1960s and 1970s, the jetset were the wealthy and adventurous social elite, who skied in St. Moritz in the winter and sunned themselves in Juan-les-Pines over the summer. Nowadays, these far-flung locales are easier to reach, and there are more destinations than ever to add to one’s bucket list, which means the exclusive club of jetsetters has expanded a thousandfold. Even if you never sip cocoa in the Alpine Mountains or drink straight out of a coconut in Bali, Pucci’s Fall/Winter 2016 holds massive appeal.
The optic graphics, ample outerwear, oversized color-blocked sweaters, and sporty dresses in the collection are not only easy to wear, they’re also perfect for turning heads. Coats are especially fetching this time around, featuring beautiful intarsia shearling, as well as puffy ski jackets that depicted mountain scenery, mannish silk overcoats in abstract camo prints, and more. There are many stand-out looks that bear mentioning, like a ribbed sweater with overlong sleeves worn with a graphic skirt over striped track pants – from head to toe, the lines of the outfit pull the eye straight down, elongating the model to alien proportions. Additionally, there are several track jackets and skirts that have been Frankensteined together into midi-length frocks that are super cool and inventively stylish.
These are but a few examples of Giorgetti’s deft hand at combining artistic graphics, which are paired together in a mix of patterns and colors that both clash and compliment. Although Giorgetti’s first collection for Pucci last season didn’t completely thrill the critics, this presentation was a perfect point of origin this season for a brand that got its start on the slopes.