Alberta Ferretti is, among other things, a poet and a thinker, a fact which translates clearly in her beautiful, feminine, poetic collections that are underpinned by theoretical concepts and broad artistic ideals. It’s no wonder she used to run a brand called Philosophy. For Fall/Winter 2016, she inscribed the character of her collection on Instagram with florid captions. One look represented “the magic medley of determination by defining her own sensuality,” and another was tasked with “translating freedom of being into freedom of dressing,” describing her brigade as, “the women of Fall 20016 [who] are sensual, light, yet never afraid of being bold.” She called her show “utopian contemporary,” and that descriptor is apt for illustrating the kind of “crawled from out of Nature” looks she showed. Her women, in their lavishly embroidered floral and lace slips seemed to have just departed the Garden of Eden with its most treasured materials woven into bodily adornment.
But utopianism is a dream, not a reality, in this fraught world of suffering, which is why Ferretti imbued her collection with comfort. In her gorgeous garden of ideas, she plucked loungewear as a motif, turning silk pajamas into jumpsuits, and boudoir slips into diaphanous sheer goddess dresses. While her designs are always beautiful, there is something so vulnerable to the way she constructed her frocks and gowns. They are beyond delicate, some in velvet with mesh insets and a scrawl of embroidered nature scenery, while others clung to every curve with fragile bespoke lace details. These ethereal looks would have floated away if the collection had not been anchored in fantastically wearable, denser looks made from sculpted jacquard covered in poppy appliqués, oversized tweed coats, embroidered hooded toppers, and even relaxed pant suits with plain surfaces.
Her women seem to have just departed the Garden of Eden with its most treasured materials woven into bodily adornment.
Several sheath dresses were especially magnetic, featuring cracked, molten surfaces that mimicked the varying sub-stratas of earth, and her lavish fur maxi skirt with a lace bodice top was a real show-stopper. In the language of the poets, this collection was a dream-made manifest, but for the consumer it is an investment that allows one to flex serious style muscle in the form of extremely well-made, gorgeous clothes.