For Fall/Winter 2016, Peter Pilotto works magic on the runway once again, this time with a theme of icy landscapes.
Last year, Peter Pilotto and his partner Christopher de Vos partnered with London investment firm, MH Luxe, and Megha Mittal, allowing them to take a minority stake in the brand. This partnership infused the brand with enough cash to allow Pilotto and de Vos to elevate their craft to new heights, and they did not take that opportunity for granted. What is interesting about their newly evolved direction is that Pilotto, who made his name as one of the first to implement digital prints, would begin to involve artisanal craftwork into his collections. It was a case of the New World meeting the Old World, as Pilotto began to infuse his vivid, mesmerizing patterns with hand embroidery and macramé. Naturally, as an innovator, Pilotto isn’t entirely comfortable mimicking decorative elements from the past, so he made his own stamp on these techniques by weaving with plastic thread, custom treating his fabrics, creating bespoke lace, and the list goes on.
For Fall/Winter 2016, Pilotto works magic on the runway once again, this time with a theme of icy landscapes. What looks like folky Nordic embroidery on the first look is actually an original pattern made from the spiky arms of conjoined snowflakes. It looked old-fashioned, but it was entirely new. This pattern would come to play a large part in the overall collection, and was added as trim to long pencil skirts, ribbed blouses with high-necks made from tinsel wreaths, cropped jackets, and more. Other custom patterns and prints appeared, some as literal snowflakes, and others resembling tunnels carved in the snow by melting droplets. One digital print in particular popped up on a sloped-shoulder coat, and featured yellow and silver pathways that cut through an arctic landscape, not unlike the maps used by climbers who risk everything to get to the top of frosty peaks. Pilotto also created beautiful technical lace made to look like snowflakes, which adorned the seams of an off-shoulder silk dress.
When both the technicalities and tailoring of a collection are this imaginative and enchanting, you feel for a moment that time stops when you’re looking at them. Only an avalanche could break the spell.
Pilotto’s many experimentations proved fruitful this season, supported by the fact that at least a dozen or more looks in this collection belong in the “Best of London Fashion Week” category. There were glistening dresses with sprawling cracked ice designs etched onto their surfaces, glacial coats embroidered with snowflakes, a multi-colored print dress with a monochrome tie-off neckline that screamed “best-seller”, sumptuous knits, painted jackets, and more. When both the technicalities and tailoring of a collection are this imaginative and enchanting, you feel for a moment that time stops when you’re looking at them. Only an avalanche could break the spell.