Roksanda Ilincic is a color aficionado, with an artist’s eye for pairings and patterns, but this season her signature color schemes took a back seat.
Roksanda Ilincic is a color aficionado, with an artist’s eye for pairings and patterns, but this season her signature color schemes took a back seat. Instead, Ilincic focused on romantic silhouettes, and toyed with shape, structure, and tailoring in ways we have not seen from her before. After 11 years in the business, now is as good a time as any to flex those skills.
The Bohemia craze that swept the Spring/Summer 2016 runways has held fast through to Fall/Winter 2016, but retooled versions feature a marked courtship of romantic styles, and at Roksanda the story continued. Romantic, inviting, feminine silhouettes featuring plush textures comprised the heart of the collection.
Looks were built around a solid statement piece that came in a linear silhouette, which was softened by decorative accouterments like ruffled collars, velvet lapels, billowing poet sleeves, and silk bows. There were color-blocked dresses with ruffled collars splayed out over the chest and shoulders, prim sweaters topped with mini-fur capes and finished with flared sleeves, and gorgeous dresses comprised of Escher-esque jigsaw intarsia textures. Ilincic also included a 1960s motif in the form of geometric prints that mimicked city skylines, and prints that echoed upholstery found on mid-century modern furniture. Meanwhile, chintzy brocade tapestries complimented this retro style of pattern-work.
The collection leaned more heavily on maximal elements – a balance that proved modernity and old-fashioned romance are great bedfellows.
Velvet and suede was also used to good measure throughout the presentation, and was cut into beautiful capes, relaxed pajama suiting, and more. Only a few times did Ilincic depart from her muted jewel-toned canvas in order to include youthful doodle print dresses that were charming and amply cut. The final line-up of gowns reflected the theme of romance with plissé gowns done in two-tone color-blocking, a velvet column dress with a ruffled neckline, and two sheer gowns – one lavender and one navy – that transformed the doodle print into magical abstract embroidery.
Ilincic passed two milestones today: she showed her 1000th dress and for the first time ever, she expanded her range to include handbags. The bags were instant classics, handsome and subdued, but the collection itself leaned more heavily on maximal elements – a balance that proved modernity and old-fashioned romance are great bedfellows.