While eveningwear means gowns to most, Antonio Berardi had another thing in mind for Fall/Winter 2016.
While eveningwear means gowns to most, Antonio Berardi had another thing in mind for Fall/Winter 2016. His muse – a nocturnal fun seeker – was bored of gowns and cocktail dresses. She wanted something new, something impossibly stylish but sleek at the same time – and her main caveat is that she wanted to be able to walk, stand, sit, or dance in her new wardrobe. Berardi kept all of these points in mind as he constructed his new collection, and the results offer not only a new proposition for evening, but also a new way of working the red carpet. Would you wear a suit during a night on the town? Maybe not, but what if it was interspliced with gorgeous bespoke lace and toughened up with fetishistic rows of metal studs? Would you wear a trench-dress on the red carpet? If Berardi was its creator, then you’d be wise to say yes.
The results offer not only a new proposition for evening, but also a new way of working the red carpet.
The first look offers a beautifully tailored long-line coat from which a peep of lacy underthings appears at the chest. Paired with sheer trousers, the whole thing took on a sophisticated evening mood. The main motif of the collection relied on a hodge-podge of varying textures in the same shade of black, rendered interesting visual surfaces that were three-dimensional, but singular in tone. For example, Berardi showed a spectacular bonded jacket in glossy leather which was fitted with opaque fabric shoulders and sheer lace sleeves and a jumpsuit featuring decorative trim, which wrapped around elbows and trailed down the length of the front from chest to shin. Several of his dresses were made from fantastic custom lace designs with geometric etching on the surfaces, most of which were upholstered with contrasting trim.
One stand-out dress was inventively engineered from a a sleeveless mock turtleneck dress with an attached halter slip that that was held in place by buttons all the way down. Berardi also introduced his smart evening attire in shades of rust red, with dresses stitched together by lacing at the shoulders and suiting worn with wool vests. Simple velvet dresses were also an impactful look, as were his smooth black frocks that were stippled with metal rivets. A key ingredient to Berardi’s success this season was his use of dense layering, where layers were tailored so precisely that even when stacked together, the look was never bulky and the body never lost its shape. For his A-list clients like Jessica Chastain, Cate Blanchett, and Jennifer Lawrence, these grown-up looks will fit nicely into the red carpet category, but for the rest of us, they’ll go miles toward updating our choices for a night out.