Minimalist designer Francisco Costa was in an experimental mood for Fall/Winter 2016, which saw him adding artistic splashes to nearly every surface. After exploring the slip dress last season, Costa returned to another staple of the Calvin Klein brand: the suit. The suit is the ultimate New York statement piece, and every NYFW designer has placed their spin on the classic at one time or another. This season, Costa’s suits are amply cut and oversized, done with pin stripes, simple silk, or fluid surfaces trimmed with contrast piping. To add movement to the already-roomy silhouette of his suits, Costa also added in buckles and harnesses that were left to flap in the wind as his models walked the runway.
The suit is the ultimate New York statement piece, and every NYFW designer has placed their spin on the classic at one time or another.
When he wasn’t narrowing in on suiting, Costa was experimenting with plaid in multiple patterns and hues that were collaged together on single looks, or worn in a single tone with a lavish fur collar. Plaid touched the surfaces of sleeveless sheaths, zip-front frocks, luxe car coats, and more. But plaid surfaces and pin-striped suiting can hardly be called a fashion-forward collection, which is why Costa upped the ante by including deliberately unfinished hemlines to many of his looks, to obstruct the polish of his aesthetic with a sense of imminent decay. Other creative touches included a series of “meta” prints that mimicked the look of fur, and dresses that featured cut-outs along the trunk that were filled in with what looked to be slices of agate stone. Among his strongest looks was a coat made from strips of opulent fur stitched side-by-side to leather panels, and a stunning duster that glittered like the night sky. While some designers get mired by oversized silhouettes and relaxed fits, Costa kept his surfaces from being slouchy or frumpy by including these witty little moments of artistry – the kind that make you look twice.