Proenza Schouler has proven itself to be the most forward-thinking brand at New York Fashion Week, time and again, particularly in the case of its previous shows for Fall/Winter 2015 and Spring/Summer 2016. The designers’ most recent collection, which debuted last night after-hours at the Whitney Museum backed by a threatening, maudlin piano soundtrack by David Greilsammer, underscored the brand’s penchant for being ahead of the curve. This time, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez took two notions familiar to the fashion world – the bandage dress and the baggy trouser – and made them their own in a very fresh way. There was a binding and loosening to their technique that incorporated all manner of laces, suspenders, buckled harnesses, and bandage strips onto slim-cut knits. By pairing these elements with gorgeous, billowing trousers, Proenza Schouler landed on a silhouette that was impossibly flattering to the figure.
First, let’s talk about the impeccable cut of their ivory trousers, which appeared multiple times throughout the show. To see them in motion is to understand their genius engineering, as the hem of the trouser came down past the toe, but flounced so beautifully in sync with the model’s gait as to never be trod upon by an errant heel. Expect to see them sell like hotcakes.
The designers’ most recent collection underscored the brand’s penchant for being ahead of the curve.
As loose and free as the bottom portion of the collection was, the top portion was bound-up and restrictive – a sensual notion to say the least. There were impeccably tailored tops and slim dresses that were cut open and stitched back together with enormous laces, turtlenecks that were sliced up the middle and loosely tied back together, and sublime ribbed knit frocks that were strapped down by tight strips of fabric. Included in the collection are multiple liquid leather jackets in shearling in both jet black and sickly shades of nude, as well as molded leather trench coats, and patch-worked fur toppers (also tamped down by buckled harnesses). Proenza Schouler also repeated one of their elements from last season’s collection by showing dresses and turtlenecks that were stitched together loosely from two-inch wide strips of fabric all the way down. As the models moved, you could see tiny, discrete peeks of flesh as the strips puckered with every step. Feathered lashes and magic eye prints also made an appearance throughout the collection, topping off surfaces that were already etched with texture due to their bandaged construction. The best part of all is the fact that a selection of these looks is immediately available for purchase right now on ProenzaSchouler.com.