On paper, an ochre-yellow ribbed turtleneck and khaki-green jumpsuit do not sound like the most stellar combination. Neither does a bronzed-orange velvet pant suit. In fact, when described verbally, most of 3.1 Phillip Lim‘s Fall/Winter 2016 collection sounds off-putting, but in reality it is anything but. With the use of amazing textile mash-ups and a theme that blends 1970s cool with Asiatic elements and military moods, his collection is imaginative, hip, and fashion-forward – three things that have been sorely missing from the New York Fashion Week line-up so far.
While snow drifts piled up on the streets of New York outside, the audience at 3.1 Phillip Lim was treated to an eye-popping array of edgy uptown threads that evoked a nonchalant attitude. The show began with yellow tartan coordinated separates, such as relaxed trousers tailored with a leather cord-drawn sackcloth waist and a top fitted with a zip-up neckline. Lim topped the look with a quilted nylon parka that hit at the knee, which added a dash of street to his primly attired model. He continued to push styles to outward dimensions by finishing seams with silver staples and collaging together a wild mix of plaid patterns across asymmetrically trimmed sweaters.
Like a master painter, Lim spliced together unlikely elements to create one of the most vivid autumnal canvases that NYFW has seen yet.
Additionally, there were khaki-green pinafore dresses worn with oversized plaid coats that had chunks nipped out at the elbow, leather trench coats with tartan inserts on one side of the chest, kimono-sleeved tunics with mix-print panels, and beige knot-front sweater dresses. Lim hit the ball out of the park with two dark-orange looks, one of them a sleeveless coat with oversized lacing details. Some looks featured quilted surfaces upon which bronze amorphous blobs encroached, while others featured plissé metallic textures.
The construction of Lim’s garments underscore his talent as an artist, a role which goes beyond that of a designer to include a keen eye for print, color, and texture pairing. Like a master painter, Lim spliced together unlikely elements to create one of the most vivid autumnal canvases that New York Fashion Week has seen yet. If you’re a fashionado, you’ll recognize that this collection goes above and beyond in regards to styling, tailoring, and design.
Take a bow, Mr. Lim. You’ve outdone yourself this season.