In a recent op-ed for Business of Fashion, site founder Imran Amed declared Fall/Winter 2016 to be “a season like no other”. The fashion world is buzzing about new developments on the business side, as brands attempt to find sure footing through an industry now tossed into upheaval by a new generation of shoppers. At Hervé Léger by Max Azria, it is also shaping up to be a season like no other – not because the brand has decided to adopt an in-season approach, but because it is embracing a new, more attitudinal direction for Fall/Winter 2016. For the first time, the brand is steering its collection into punk territory by showcasing its signature bandage looks in multi-colored plaid patterns and tamping down surfaces with metal grommets, safety pins, and chains. While everyone is rushing to redefine their business model, Hervé Léger by Max Azria is more interested in redefining its aesthetic.
While everyone is rushing to redefine their business model, Hervé Léger is more interested in redefining its aesthetic.
While the punk message is key to the brand’s Fall/Winter 2016 collection, it does not overwhelm the clothes. Instead, punk-inspired elements provide the basis on which Azria builds a deconstructed, street-smart presentation that folds in brand signatures with the spice of 1970s-born fashion rebellion. The strappy bandage dress becomes a confident statement piece when treated with folk-art prints, plaid, and grommeted fringe or when transformed into the kind of racy bodysuit that Kendall Jenner might wear if she ever abandons the #BalmainArmy.
For outerwear, Hervé Léger provides ample fur-trimmed coats, which share the stage with puffy parkas and quilted handkerchief vests, while asymmetrical knitwear clasps one arm before trailing into a scarf-like tail down the front of the body. For a brand that must reinvent its signatures every season without turning to stale formulas, this punk-y new direction was a smart move.